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Posts from the ‘Book shelf’ Category

Apr 26

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Cookbook review: Fiona Cairns – Bake and Decorate

Honestly, is there anything nicer than biting into a slice of fresh cake that has been lovingly baked especially you? For those who bake, the act of making said cake is equally satisfying. There really is such joy in having something prepared for you and sharing it amongst friends. Many of us hold special childhood memories of parents, grandparents or even special friends making us our ideal birthday cake. I guess the ultimate example of this is the wedding cake and it’s lovely to know that in times of rationing, world wars etc, communities and families would club together to make the best cake they could to celebrate a special occasion.

As royal wedding fever hits the UK it feels as though the whole country, and perhaps beyond, is clubbing together to bake a celebratory cake for Prince William and his Catherine. I’m sure even those royal wedding humbugs would accept a slice of homemade sponge.

I cannot pretend to be a ‘baker’, but I do very much enjoy the act of baking and the look on a friend’s face when you deliver their perfect cake. Indeed I have already baked two wedding cakes this year including, unbelievably, my own! And yet, until two weeks ago my little kitchen library did not feature a single cookbook devoted exclusively to baking. Somehow I had consigned this genre to the same desolate wasteland that ‘scrapbooking’ occupies (I’m sure some of you love scrapbooking but I can’t think of anything more useless - sorry). How wrong was I?

Since exploring the world of Fiona royal-wedding-cake-baker Cairns’ Bake & Decorate I can already see that this tome will occupy a well thumbed place in my library. Fiona, obviously a baker of high regard, also produces cakes for UK supermarket institution Waitrose, and design and style icons the Conran Shop, Harrods, Selfridges, and Fortum and Mason. She’s a baker to the stars and Bake & Decorate is her first book.

As the name suggests Bake & Decorate is a book of two halves. The first, Bake, gives the home cook a stock of great cakes – from a basic sponge to a decadent chocolate beetroot cake – from which can be crafted beautiful celebration cakes from the Decorate section of the book. Baking is a creative process and the book encourages you to decide for yourself what you want the end product to look and taste like. 

She begins, though, by introducing the reader to the glories of dipping a finger in the mixing bowl, the language of baking: butter cream, piping bags, scales, the importance of the correct cake tin etc.

The book does well to demystify the world of home baking and the bright pictures always serve to inspire. Don’t be daunted by the long lists of ingredients in some of the recipes; once you have the staples (flour, baking powder, icing sugar) you’ll be able to grab a few choice ingredients when you finally choose which cake to try.  

Perhaps, cakes such as summer berry and rose-scented meringue or strawberry, mint and balsamic cheesecake. Or why not try one of the many fun seasonal cakes and biscuits, and of course the now ubiquitous cupcake? Perhaps chilli chocolate is your thing? The variety of recipes in the book also demonstrate how baking can make great personalised gifts for any occasion – cakes crafted into tiny fancy hats anyone?

 Finally, yes, the book does venture into the logistics of ‘big’ tiered cakes, sugar paste flowers and royal icing. And, yes, it does contain a recipe for fruit cake by which you can recreate your own version of Fiona’s royal wedding cake. Personally I’ll be attempting the fresh petal confetti cake, a riot of colourful fresh petals from lavender, cornflower, rose, marigold, pansy, sunflower, daisy and primula – now that’s a cake!

Apr 15

Cookbook review: José Pizzaro – Seasonal Spanish Food

For me some cookbooks get mentally archived and re-introduced as and when the season dictates. Although José Pizzaro’s heartfelt tomb had arrived on my doorstep a year ago I had archived it mainly due to the Spanish penchant for Jamón and my partner’s penchant for vegetarianism. But this Spring the rust red cover of the book called me and I delved into its pages filled with warm Iberian sunshine and tasty food.

Seasonal Spanish Food moves through a year of seasons beginning with a good introduction to particularly iconic ingredients and techniques, such as olive oil, chorizo, and the making of the perfect tortilla (frittata/Spanish omelette), peppered throughout. We are all, or think we are, familiar with Spanish cuisine so it’s nice to have the traditions and intricacies explained in more detail. It gives more meaning to the dishes and really helps you comprehend the reality of eating through the seasons. A detail we are so sorely divorced from in our day-to-day culinary habits.

As it is almost Easter and lamb is jumping round the fields – and with any luck swiftly onto my plate – I was particularly interested in Jose’s roast and bbq’d lamb recipes. I had grand ideas about bbqing a leg of lamb but, as expected the 12/24 marinating time proved too much for my little head to plan in advance and I trialled the slow roast (with only 2 hours marinating). After about four hours of roasting and constant loving care the meat was soft and juicy and easily pulled from the bone, it was also incredibly scrummy. I accompanied the lamb with a first attempt at tortilla. I have always known the recipe was incredibly simple but it’s the technique and, crucially, the leaving overnight that improves this dish. My first attempt was OK but the following week’s second attempt was much more of a success. I honestly think this is a dish well worth mastering as it’s so versatile and portable once cooked. I’m having visions of picnics, friends’ bbq’s and having it as a stand-by fridge snack or emergency lunch with a little salad. I promise I will work on it Mr Pizzaro.  José says in his book that Brindisa, Borough Market’s popular tapas bar, uses 15 kilos of potato’s a day making tortillas!

The following week I attempt chicken pepitoria in the entirely wrong season, according to the book. José says the dish is a popular Christmas or celebration dish and as this is a celebratory thank-you meal for a very good and talented friend I reasoned that it’s appropriate. It’s also really simple and very, very, richly tasty. I use joints of chicken as instructed and it reminds me of the huge pieces of chicken my Nonna would always dish up at family celebrations. A long languid lunch means the bones are picked clean by the end of the meal. The added bonus with this recipe is the gravy – it’s fantastic and we mop it up with piping hot flat breads fresh from the bbq.

Over both meals I trial a selection of salads: orange salad, green bean salad with anchovies and courgette salad. All are well balanced and make great substantial sides for hungry vegetarians.

I also attempt crème Catalan to the delight of the lunch guests. The recipe is a resounding success with the guest-of-honour more than happy to go back for seconds of the citrusy chilled custard and fig combination. Even if I don’t own a blow torch to create the perfect sugary crust.

José also goes through the details for Spanish classics such as paella and gazpacho. I have a go at the latter and although it’s reasonable it really is worth investing or begging/borrowing/stealing some well grown tomatoes because the insipid, pale, watery supermarket variety just don’t cut it. I once read in Greg Wallace’s veg cookbook that leaving the nasty supermarket variety in the sun for a bit improves them considerably – I am dubious but I guess it’s worth a try.

I guess one of the key lessons learned from José’s book is the importance of quality ingredients. Whether it be good cheeses, meats or vegetables – if you source the good stuff you’re half way there. Although those of us inner city dwellers have  great access to traditional Spanish ingredients from specialist retailers we perhaps have to try a little harder to find fresh seasonal ingredients that might be easier to source out in ‘the countryside.’

Overall the book is a great inspiration, and there are many more recipes I am longing to try in the near future. I am also reliably told that if I don’t fancy trying them out in my own kitchen the man himself is opening his first solo venture/s in Bermondsey, London mid-May. Initially there is a tapas and sherry bar called José followed by a restaurant call ‘Pizzaro’ and although José appears to be splitting himself in two I’m sure his punters will be chuffed to be able to sample the tasty morsels  from Mr Pizzaro’s kitchen.